Remove all covers exposing the DC fuse board, AC breakers and lower converter section. You may have up to 9 additional wires attached to the DC fuse Board. You can remove them now and mark their position for installation on the new fuse board. Make sure to transfer the properly rated fuse to the same position on the new fuse board.
Remove the fuse board and the blue, red and white DC wires.
Remove the plate to expose the wires to the breakers, neutral, and ground bars.
Note: We have only two circuit breakers installed for illustration purposes. You will likely have several more and maybe even twin style breakers. These do not need to be removed unless you are replacing them as well. Locate the breaker that powers the lower converter by following the two wires up from the lower section. Remove only the hot wire (Usually black) from the breaker and the neutral wire (Usually White) from the neutral bar.
When reinstalling the AC wires from the new converter, there will be a third wire (Green) that will need to be connected to the ground bar.
Remove the lower converter section screws and slide the unit out.
Remove the top of the unit for easier access. Drill out the rivets to remove all internal components. Install several strips of mounting tape to prevent movement of the converter in the housing.
Install new converter into housing.
Remove the corner cover and install positive and negative cables to the lugs.
Relocate chassis ground lug to top post (optional) and reattach cover.
Attach the hot, neutral and ground AC wires.
Connect DC wires. Note the new fuse board only needs two DC cables from the new converter. The red cable connects to the top of the fuse board where the old blue cable was attached. The entire fuse board is powered from this red cable.
Attach the white cable to one of the lower “Neg” lugs.
Install appropriately rated fuses to the board. Install accessory wires to the corresponding fuse positions.
Install incoming battery cables to the “Pos” and “Neg” positions on the fuse board. Note, this is a good time to determine if you need to replace your battery to converter cables. They need to be properly rated and we recommend a minimum of 8 AWG however 6 AWG or larger would be better. Most cables are at least 8 AWG but you need to make sure. This is important for safety and good charging performance. Long runs to the battery with underrated cable will cause a voltage drop and reduce the charging performance of your new converter.
Procedure 2 (7300 series to Xantrex XADC)
Note: We feel it is not necessary to bolt the converter to the lower tray like Ron did in this write-up. Though not necessary, it does not hurt but will require additional work. Ron agrees mounting tape would would significantly reduce the time required.
This procedure to upgrade the lower converter/charger section of a Parallax/Magnetek 7355 to the Xantrex Truecharge™ RV (XADC) multi-stage charging converter was completed by Ron Brightwell. This procedure would also work with the older 6300 series units as well.
Randy:
I've attached some pictures of how I mounted the Xantrex 60 Amp.
converter in a 7355 bottom enclosure. Its not art but I think it will
work. I'll go through the steps I took in point form and describe as
best I can. I will not cover removal of the enclosure or of the
original board. I think its pretty self evident. There's not a lot of
dimension info either as this was mostly a place and mark operation.
* First I drilled out the rivets that held on the top cover of the
enclosure, then I removed the circuit board. I drilled out all of
the remaining rivets and mounting posts except for the rivets
holding the bottom of the enclosure.
* I then modified the mounting brackets for the Xantrex unit as per
the pictures. I drilled new side mounting holes 9/16" down
vertically from the original mounting holes in the bracket and
drilled and filed clearance for the mounting screw in the side of
the converter using the new mounting holes. I used the original
bottom mounting slots for mounting the unit and filed them deeper
by about 1/16" in. so that there would be space for the screw
mounting head in the external bottom of the enclosure. I drilled
and filed clearance holes and notches in the bottom part of the
bracket to clear the existing rivets in the bottom of the enclosure.
* Mounted the brackets to the converter and placed the unit in the
enclosure. It is a perfect fit laterally and I left about 3/16"
clearance at the back of the unit. The object of that was to line
up the existing wire access hole in the top cover of the enclosure
with the converter exit for the DC supply wires.
* I cut about 1" notches in the top edge of the enclosure to line up
with the location of the mounting slots on the bottom interior of
the enclosure. This to be able to mark the mounting holes in the
bottom of the enclosure and to provide access for starting and
tightening the mounting nuts. This action wiped out the rivet
holes originally holding the top cover so I drilled new holes for
#8 X 3/8" sheet metal screws to be able to remount the top cover
of the enclosure.
* I marked the mounting holes inside the enclosure and transferred
the measurement to the external bottom for drilling and bevelling
to accommodate 8-32 1/2" machine screws. Flush mount screws were
needed so that the heads of the mounting screws wouldn't interfere
with replacing the modified unit in the main enclosure.
* I moved the DC ground lug to the top mounting option so it could
be accessed through the existing ventilation hole in the top cover.
* I placed the converter mounting screws from the bottom of the
enclosure and started 8-32 self locking nuts using a grabber and
tightened them down with a long handle socket.
* I drilled an AC wiring access hole with a 1/2"" grommet on the
front left of the top cover. This is placed so as to be about
half way between the AC exit of the converter and the existing AC
access in the main unit. The object was so that the converter AC
wires could be threaded though the three access holes with the
converter in place. The existing DC access hole in the top cover
lines up well enough to be able to thread #6 wire through from the
converter to the DC compartment in the main unit.
* I put the cover in place using the sheet metal screws.
* I don't know that it matters but the approximate clearances of the
converter to the enclosure work out to be side : 9/16", Bottom :
1/4", Top : 7/16", Rear : 3/16", front : 3/8".
One other thing. Should the ground stud on the converter be wired out
to the trailer chassis? I'm not clear on its use. Ron, the Xantrex has two options for a chassis ground. One on the top and one on the side. I see you moved the lug to the top for easier access and that is fine. It is supposed to be grounded to the chassis but I know many people do not. I'm supposed to tell you to do it.
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